Montenegrins have a flexible approach to opening times. Even if hours are posted on the door of an establishment, don’t be surprised if they’re not heeded. Many tourist-orientated businesses close between November and March.
1. Post offices – 7am-8pm Monday to Friday, sometimes Saturday. In smaller towns they may close midafternoon, or close at noon and reopen at 5pm.
2. Banks – 8am-5pm Monday to Friday, 8am-noon Saturday
3. Shops – 9am-8pm. Sometimes they’ll close for a few hours in the late afternoon.
4. Restaurants, Cafes and Bars – 8am-midnight
Arriving in Montenegro
Podgorica Airport -Taxis charge a standard €15 fare for the 9km to central Podgorica. There are no buses.
Tivat Airport -Taxis charge €5 to €7 for the 3km to Tivat, €10 for Kotor and €25 for Budva. There are no buses.
Dubrovnik Airport -There are no buses directly to Montenegro, but buses to Dubrovnik Bus Station (24km in the wrong direction) are timed around flights (35KN). From Dubrovnik there are only two buses a day to Herceg Novi (€10) and Kotor (€14), one of which continues to Podgorica (€19). Herceg Novi travel agencies and accommodation providers can usually pre-arrange a transfer for €40.
1. Bus – Buses link all major towns and are affordable, reliable and reasonably comfortable.
2. Car – While you can get to most places by bus, hiring a car will give you freedom to explore some of Montenegro’s scenic back roads. Some of these are extremely narrow and cling to the sides of canyons, so it may not suit the inexperienced or fainthearted.
3. Train – Trains are cheap but the network is limited and the carriages are old and can get hot. The main line links Bar, Virpazar, Podgorica, Kolašin, Mojkovac and Bijelo Polje, and there’s a second line from Podgorica to Danilovgrad and Nikšić.
From out of nowhere, a hostel scene has finally blossomed in Montenegro. Granted, it’s in its infancy and mainly concentrated on Kotor and Budva, but it’s off to a very good start. Old Town Hostel is our favourite.
Prokletije National Park
Montenegro’s newest national park was born in 2009, protecting the mountainous stretch bordering Albania and Kosovo. Here’s hoping that improved, non-intrusive visitor infrastructure will follow.
Variety is the spice of life, and spicy variety has finally come to Podgorica with the opening of the country’s first Indian restaurant, while Tivat now has Japanese.
Miodrag Dado Ðuric Gallery
The 2010 death of Montenegro’s most acclaimed artist was a blow to the country’s artistic fraternity, but the opening of this gallery in his honour has been a wonderful boon.